Alyss Heart costume – finished!

So the surprise costume #1 was Queen Alyss Heart from “The Looking Glass Wars.”
SO glad to have it done!
From the beginning – here’s a little write up.

I started out with a champagne coloured taffeta – it originally had an empire waist but I decided it needed to be more fitted through there to work, so I added a panel in to lengthen it. It was the same pattern I used for Ozma, btw – just for Ozma I used nothing but the skirt LOL. I waffled for a LONG time on the sleeves. They look very full – similar to maybe Arwen sleeves or sleeves similar to what I did with Anne Boleyn – fitted on the upper arm and then very full on the lower arm. I decided to make it fitted and figure out the rest later.

Pieces cut out!

The basic pieces of the dress pure together. Ready for ruffles.

For the ruffles I was originally going to do two layers – 1 layer of organza and one of chiffon. I made two like that before I realised it was not going to be cost effective, and I was going to use up all the organza that was supposed to have also been for Gaga. So I decided to switch to just one layer of chiffon – I cauterized the edges to finish them, though I know I messed a few places and I’m going to have to go back and get them later. I machine sewed them all on except for a few around the hips where it was just too hard to get into the machine.

Making more ruffles.I put my biggest hoopskirt underneath it just to stretch it out - to make sure I had enough ruffles for full coverage. My smaller petticoat is what I'm wearing under it, though.Kelldar.com | My Facebook Page | Tumblr  | Instagram

Another tiny picture. I'll have to find this one and replace it as well.Getting started on my ruffles - got several pieces cut and gathered. Pinning them on to see how many I have and how many more I need.Also starting the neck area - chiffon attached to a taffeta collar piece.Kelldar.com | My Facebook Page | Tumblr  | Instagram

I don’t know how much chiffon I ended up using. With Amidala it was easy to remember because everytime I went back I just bought another 10yds. This time I don’t know, I don’t remember because everytime I went back it was an odd amount. I ended up with about maybe a yard of made/dyed/finished ruffle I didn’t need.
Dying the stuff was fun, not really. I dyed them all and then wasn’t happy with the colour. It was TOO pink. I threw them in dye remover and lightened it down, then added a layer of tangerine in areas and was much happier.

I got my ruffles dyed and I'm starting to add them. The bottom is the easiest - I can machine sew these in place.Kelldar.com | My Facebook Page | Tumblr  | Instagram

More ruffles added. It's so fluffy I could die.Kelldar.com | My Facebook Page | Tumblr  | Instagram

The collar I made a little bigger than my reference, and also Heart shaped LOL… you can see the original look in this pic:

Lots of progress since my last photo!I've gotten all of the ruffles attached and the edges finished. I had to handsew a lot of these on. Also got the beading at the waistline finished.The chiffon chestpiece is in place, and I've started beading the fitted collar. I've gotten a start on the stand-up collar - this is a first version.Kelldar.com | My Facebook Page | Tumblr  | Instagram

Last night I decided it was throwing the proportions off, so I shortened it down and it lost the heart shape unfortunately, but it looks more like the reference now. I had about 4 different kinds of red beads that I beaded the collar and the chest with. The “loopey bits” (I have no name for them) where a pain and were the last thing I did – clear tubes with dark pink chiffon threaded through. I handsewed them in place and hopefully they stay!
As for those sleeves I was talking about – I was going to add layers of the dyed chiffon (not the ruffled pieces!) to the sleeves at the elbow. When I pinned them on I just didn’t like them. This dress already has a LOT going on… and with all of that and the fullness of the dress, it just seemed like the sleeves needed to balance it out by being simple. I decided to dump the chiffon sleeves and just added some of the leftover ruffle to the edge. I think what I might do while wearing it is this – the dyed silk gauze coming from the collar (my fav part of the costume!) goes all the way to the floor in the back. I could wrap it loosely around my arms to create the effect from the reference pic without actually having the sleeves.
The wig was another adventure. It’s actually not a wig, it’s a hat. It is my hair hat.

Getting a start on my Alyss wig. My husband helped create a plastic "helmet" that fits to my head. I've gotten a foam form attached to this that will create the shape of the wig. Kelldar.com | My Facebook Page | Tumblr  | Instagram

Chase took a cast of my head, and I built off that. I built up the shape with foam – it was a little too tall originally, as you can see in the pic above. Once the glue dried I started covering it in a wig I picked up for super cheap in a cosworx sale.

Getting the wig formed over the "helmet" and the foam piece. This is the only time I've ever done a wig this way and it was interesting. Not sure I'd do it again.Kelldar.com | My Facebook Page | Tumblr  | Instagram

Got the wig finished and created the tiara around it out of wire and beads. It's sewn in a few places too just to keep everything where it should be.Kelldar.com | My Facebook Page | Tumblr  | Instagram

I hated attaching the hair, it was not enjoyable. LOL. I also lost the shape a little with all the hair, but ah well. The tiara went much faster than the actual wig. I was pleased with that. I was kinda just doing what I wanted with it – the reference art is very soft and water-coloury so trying to get it exact would have been impossible. I COULD get it off the wig, but it’s made to all be one piece that I just left off and on my head.

The finished wig and crown.Kelldar.com | My Facebook Page | Tumblr  | Instagram It fits my dressform a little odd - especially around the neck/collar (my dressform's neck is much larger than mine, so it doesn't fit at all!) But this is done... it has taken forever and I'm glad its done. Alyss Heart from "The Looking Glass Wars"Kelldar.com | My Facebook Page | Tumblr  | Instagram

So it’s finished. I’ve got little things I could nit-pick and go back and work on but I don’t have time – I still have other things I need to get finished, so I’m marking it all off my to-do list and worry about everything else later.